Q&A with CAP member: Ashley Gill
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Briefly describe your background, interests & areas of expertise?
I’ve grown up around cotton, my family has been farming in Texas for three generations. I’ve worked with Textile Exchange for 10+ years, focusing on standards, specifically our standards for recycled content. I have knowledge in multi-stakeholder groups, product labelling, chain of custody, and standards and verification methods. I’ve also helped develop Textile Exchange’s Climate strategy for 2030.What does circularity in the textiles industry mean to you?
I’m committed to a textile industry that actually works for everyone involved. I’m convinced that we need to limit our reliance on non-renewable resources to ensure we’re able to provide for the needs of the future. Circularity can deliver that.What does your company/organisation do to bring about circularity (core relevant activities/commitments, highlight short and long term goals, if relevant).
Textile Exchange inspires and equips people to accelerate adoption of preferred materials in the textile value chain. We focus on carbon reduction, soil health, water and biodiversity as part of our holistic approach to drive positive impact for the entire industry.What made your decision to join the CAP?
We know that many of the solutions that will deliver real results to the industry are still in their infancy. I see the CAP as a way to learn and help drive the scale needed to meet the ambitious goals of Textile Exchange and the companies we work with.How important is this Circular Advisory Panel approach for preparing a company like WA for the market (i.e. a business starting out with the sole purpose of enabling circularity but entering the market in ‘linear times’)? What do you think it will bring to the company?
In a word, resilience!What do you believe the biggest hurdles/opportunities for transitioning to a new circular business mindset will be, for WA, for the industry?
Our economy and business world are not designed to take the bigger picture or long term impacts in mind. Doing so might help create new paradigms for the other needed innovations.Name 3 things you think businesses will be doing differently in a circular future.
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- Moving beyond a transaction-based relationship with customers/clients.
- Radical transparency will not feel so radical, it will be the norm.
- Higher value on the provenance of things, the story behind them.
Q&A with CAP member: Ann Pettifor
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Briefly describe your background, interests & areas of expertise?
My background is in macroeconomics. In 2010 I set up a network of mainly Keynesian economists with the following as its mission: “We consider that conventional or ‘mainstream’ economic theory has proved of almost no relevance to the ongoing and chronic failure of the global economy and to the gravest threat facing us all: climate change.”What does circularity in the textiles industry mean to you?
Given that we have to move to a world based on ‘sufficiency’ not ‘efficiency’, circularity in the textiles industry will be vital if we are to end continuous consumption of scarce resources – and to ensure the population has access to the clothing necessary to human survivalWhat does your company/organisation do to bring about circularity (core relevant activities/commitments, highlight short and long term goals, if relevant).
My company undertakes high level economic advocacy aimed at key figures in government departments, but also public and private finance sectors, with the aim of bringing about the economic framework needed to sustain a liveable economy, which given the ecosystem’s finite assets, is a necessity for a circular economy.What made your decision to join the CAP?
I have known Cyndi Rhoades for a long time, having met her way back at the New Economics Foundation when these ideas of circularity were regarded as marginal and frankly unrealisable. I wanted to support the extraordinary work she has done in establishing this company.How important is this Circular Advisory Panel approach for preparing a company like WA for the market (i.e. a business starting out with the sole purpose of enabling circularity but entering the market in ‘linear times’)? What do you think it will bring to the company?
We are living in uncertain times, but also in a time when change and innovation is taking place at a faster rate than ever before. Companies that are deaf or blind to a) the macroeconomic environment and changes to that environment and b) fast-changing public and consumer opinion – are likely to face losses and failure. I believe the CAP can act as a sounding board and as a forum for alerting executives of possible threats, when the latter are busy at ‘the coal face’ of day-to-day company management. I was one of the few to warn of the Great Financial Crisis in my book: ‘The Coming First World Debt Crisis’ published in September 2006. In 2010 I warned of the flaws in economic policy that led to a decade of very weak economic growth, and a stunted recovery. When this morphed into the shock that was the Coronavirus pandemic, government and private sector companies were ill prepared, and faced tremendous losses. Societies and economies face future shocks, including future pandemics, as the Oxford Professor, Ian Goldin warned in his book: The Butterfly Defect, published in 2014. Company executives need to be alive to these threats and the opportunities they pose.What do you believe the biggest hurdles/opportunities for transitioning to a new circular business mindset will be, for WA, for the industry?
The failure to be alive to changing consumer habits. Only today Greta Thunberg has announced she will not be buying new clothes.Name 3 things you think businesses will be doing differently in a circular future.
- Reversing focus on shareholder value
- borrowing less and
- employing more people.
Q&A with CAP member: Harsha Vardhan
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Briefly describe your background, interests & areas of expertise?
I have an educational background of Textile Technology and Environment Management and I have been working in the field of fashion for more than 20 years. The majority of these years were spent in the areas of Environment Sustainability (especially with circular materials, water and climate change).What does circularity in the textiles industry mean to you?
The first goal towards circularity should be to achieve “zero waste economy” and eventually, our ambition should be to provide fashion to the world without using any virgin resource. That would be a true circular vision for the textile industry.What does your company/organisation do to bring about circularity (core relevant activities/commitments, highlight short and long term goals, if relevant).
H&M Group is on a journey to become a truly circular company. We are working on multiple projects in this direction with several ambitious goals. You can read more about it here: https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/circular-and-climate-positive/What made your decision to join the CAP?
This is a unique opportunity to interact, learn and collaborate with several global experts in the field of circularity. They all come with different perspectives and experience, which makes this platform both fun and meaningful. Apart from that, CAP also gives us an opportunity to practically implement some of our ideas through Worn Again’s business model.How important is this Circular Advisory Panel approach for preparing a company like WA for the market (i.e. a business starting out with the sole purpose of enabling circularity but entering the market in ‘linear times’)? What do you think it will bring to the company?
WA can gain a lot from the experience shared within the CAP. The CAP members represent different parts of the Textile value chain and beyond. WA can test some of its business plans with these experts, in order to fine-tune its long-term business strategy.What do you believe the biggest hurdles/opportunities for transitioning to a new circular business mindset will be, for WA, for the industry?
Feedstock, technology and commercial feasibility – these are the main hurdles, as well as opportunities. Whoever gets them right will be able to completely change the industry from a linear to a circular model.Name 3 things you think businesses will be doing differently in a circular future.
- Value waste as a resource at every level.
- Engage customers in company’s circular journey
- Embrace technology (especially recycling technology) more than ever before.
Worn Again Technologies is part of the Circular Fashion Ecosystem Advisory Board
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Worn Again Technologies is part of the Circular Fashion Ecosystem Advisory Board
The British Fashion Council (BFC)’s Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF) has announced the Advisory Board for its first project, the Circular Fashion Ecosystem (previously known as ‘The Waste Eco System Project). The Board is made up of nine industry experts: Alan Wheeler, Director, Textile Recycling Association; Claire Bergkamp, Chief Operating Officer, Textile Exchange; Cyndi Rhoades, Founder, Worn Again Technologies; Dax Lovegrove, Director of Sustainability, Jimmy Choo; Franz von Bismarck-Osten, Senior Director of Sector Development for the eRetail & Fashion Industry, DHL; Jalaj Hora, Vice President of Product Innovation and Consumer Creation, Nike; Judith Rosser-Davies, Head of Government Relations and Education, BFC; Shailja Dubé, IPF Programme Lead and Circular Fashion EcoSystem Project Lead, BFC and Sonia Thimmiah, Head of Sustainable Brands and Customer Partnership, Reckitt Benckise. The organisation also welcomed sustainability consultancy 3Keel who will work alongside Founding Partner Vanish, part of Reckitt Benckiser, and DHL to support the initial stages of the Circular Fashion Ecosystem. Launched in October 2020, the Circular Fashion Ecosystem (CFE) programme is the inaugural project of the IPF. Its aim is to focus on the creation of a circular fashion economy in the UK. The programme will work with industry, academia and government to inform and implement change. Collaboration across the industry is needed now more than ever. The CFE programme will help determine what a new ecosystem looks like, the responsibilities of each stakeholder, and what are the practical next steps needed to arrive at the key programme objectives:- To accelerate industry-wide ability for textile recycling in the UK
- To make the UK a major fashion “revalue” centre within the global industry
- To influence consumer behaviour into adopting responsible consumption habits
- QSA Partners: a specialist team of circular economy and sustainable business experts with more than 30 years’ experience working with the fashion sector on resource efficiency including significant experience in circular textiles.
- Flourish CSR: a team of industry-leading corporate social responsibility specialists with deep fashion sector knowledge and the network to match.
- Adam Smith Business School, University of Glasgow: one of the world’s top 100 universities and home to leading researchers in the fields of consumer research, marketing and sustainable clothing consumption.
- Icaro: a leading consumer insights agency with expertise in market research and behaviour change who apply the latest insights from behavioural economics to help their clients understand their audience and design change strategies and interventions.
Worn Again Technologies participates to Circular Fashion Partnership led by Global Fashion Agenda
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Leading fashion players implement circular systems in Bangladesh
Over 30 renowned fashion brands, manufacturers and recyclers are collaborating in a new initiative to capture and reuse textile waste in Bangladesh. Global Fashion Agenda today announced the participants of the Circular Fashion Partnership, including the global brands Bershka, Bestseller, C&A, Gina Tricot, Grey State, H&M Group, Kmart Australia, Marks & Spencer, OVS, Pull & Bear, Peak Performance and Target Australia. The Circular Fashion Partnership is a cross-sectorial project led by Global Fashion Agenda, with partners Reverse Resources, The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and P4G, that aims to achieve a long-term, scalable transition to a circular fashion system*. The partnership facilitates circular commercial collaborations between major fashion brands, textile and garment manufacturers, and recyclers to develop and implement new systems to capture and direct post-production fashion waste back into the production of new fashion products. In addition, the partnership seeks to find solutions for the COVID-19 related pile-up of deadstock and to engage regulators and investors around the current barriers and economic opportunities in the country. Participating brands, garment manufacturers and recyclers include:- Brands: Bershka, Bestseller, C&A, Gina Tricot, Grey State, H&M Group, Kmart Australia, Marks & Spencer, OVS, Pull & Bear, Peak Performance and Target Australia
- Manufacturers: Amantex, Asrotex Group, Auko-tex Group, Aurum Sweaters, Beximco, Bitopi Group (Tarasima), Composite Knitting Industry Ltd., Crystal International Group Limited, Echotex, , Fakir Knitwear, GSM, J.M. Fabrics, Knit Asia, MAS Intimates, Ratul Group (Knitwear & Fabric), Salek Textiles, S. B Knite Composite (Sankura Dyeing and Garments) and the Northern Group
- Recyclers: Birla Cellulose, BlockTexx, Cyclo, Infinited Fiber Company, Malek Spinning Mills, Marchi & Fildi Spa, Lenzing AG, Recovertex, Renewcell, Saraz Fibre Tech, Usha Yarns Limited and Worn Again Technologies
Q&A with CAP Member: Allanna McAspurn
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Briefly describe your background, interests & areas of expertise?
I have a background in textile supply chains and my career in this area started in 2003. I was previously CEO of a European sustainability consultancy which focussed on both social and environmental sustainability within the fashion industry. During this time I led an award winning team that worked with over 100 brands and retailers on sustainability projects and strategy; we also developed industry tools which benchmarked sustainability performance. My academic life prior to working in sustainability, my wide business experience and deep knowledge of supply chains and processes, allow me to support leaders in testing the resilience of their sustainability strategies, engage them on pipeline issues that will be relevant for their business, and guide them through the cultural challenges that come with embedding new systems and ways of thinking.What made your decision to join the CAP?
I have known Cyndi since the beginning of Worn Again, I believe in her vision and the potential of this technology to dramatically reduce the environmental impact of textile manufacturing. I also know how challenging it will be to make this as successful as it deserves to be, and the multi stakeholder support that Worn Again will require in order to pull this off. Worn Again has pulled together a diverse CAP and together I think we can help the team enormously, these factors inspired me to join.What do you believe the biggest hurdles/opportunities for transitioning to a new circular business mindset will be, for WA, for the industry?
It requires a fully mobilised multi-stakeholder approach, pressure from governments and the evolution of companies and services that currently don’t exist, at least not at scale. Shifting to a circular economy is such a dramatic change from how we currently do business that large companies, even those who take a leadership stance on sustainability, will tinker around the edges for some time and the circular mindset will not be fully embedded until the roadmap for change is clearly laid out with the various actors in place and the incentives for large scale adaptation are evident. It’s clear that a circular economy of some kind will happen so the opportunity for business lies in the early engagement and being able to influence the path.WCTD Evidence paper accepted at UK Parliament
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WCTD provides written evidence to UK Parliament’s Fixing Fashion follow up Inquiry
Following the launch of World Circular Textiles Day on 8th October 2020, the WCTD’s co-founders submitted evidence paper as part of the UK Parliament’s Fixing Fashion Follow Up Inquiry and which has been accepted by the Environmental Audit Committee. The Environmental Audit Committee will follow-up work on its 2018 inquiry, Fixing fashion: clothing consumption and sustainability. The Committee has chosen to revisit the issue to monitor progress due to continued concerns around the environmental impact of the fashion industry and working conditions in UK garment factories. The Government rejected most of the Committee’s recommendations in 2019, which ranged from a producer responsibility charge to pay for better clothing collection and recycling to requiring due diligence checks across fashion supply chains to root out forced or child labour. However, the Government has identified textile waste as a priority area to address its Resources and Waste Strategy. Fashion production has a considerable impact on climate and biodiversity. The global fashion industry is estimated to have produced around 2.1 billion tonnes of greenhouse gases in 2018: the equivalent to the combined emissions of France, Germany and the UK. Fast fashion also creates a waste problem in the UK and developing countries. UK citizens buy more new clothes than any other European country and throw away over a million tonnes of clothing every year. While two thirds of clothing is either donated or collected for resale or low-quality recycling, around 336,000 tonnes are disposed of in household bins destined for landfill or incineration. The Covid-19 pandemic has shone a light on garment factories in Leicester. Reports of poor working conditions suggests there has been little improvement since the Committee’s report, which recommended regular audits and for companies to engage with unions for their workers. The Committee’s follow-up work will consist of gathering written evidence and a one-off oral evidence session. About Environmental Audit Committee The Committee’s remit is to consider the extent to which the policies and programmes of government departments and non-departmental public bodies contribute to environmental protection and sustainable development, and to audit their performance against sustainable development and environmental protection targets. About World Circular Textiles Day WCTD which will take place every year on 8th October, was launched in 2020 to celebrate the efforts of a growing community of companies, organisations and individuals actively working towards a circular textiles’ future. Its main aim is to record the progress and chart the momentum of circularity in textiles. For more information, please visit www.worldcirculartextilesday.comQ&A with CAP Member: Faith LeGendre
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Briefly describe your background, interests & areas of expertise:
Wide range interest and experience thinker. Ability to keep track of ever-changing interconnecting parts for the benefit of people, planet, and prosperity for all. Accomplished Strategist with 15+ years of experience with 200+ organizations worldwide via innovative and pioneering business approaches that drive results. Drove successful Circular Economy initiatives within Consumer-Packaged Goods, Fashion, and other industries. Authored vastly-downloaded (over 250), Circular Economy publication. Highly sought-after knowledge speaker with Industry Speaking Engagements globally. Exceptional ability to build/manage key partnerships.What does circularity in the textiles industry mean to you?
Designing textiles for circularity from the get go. Taking back after the manufacturer or customer no longer has a need and keeping those valuable resources in use in the interconnected loops.What does your company/organisation do to bring about circularity (core relevant activities/commitments, highlight short and long term goals, if relevant).
N/A freelance consultantWhat made your decision to join the CAP?
I was very impressed with Cyndi’s presentation at Launch.org back in 2018. This is the tech, plan, and scale that’s needed to create real change within the textile industry.How important is this Circular Advisory Panel approach for preparing a company like WA for the market (i.e., a business starting out with the sole purpose of enabling circularity but entering the market in ‘linear times’)? What do you think it will bring to the company?
I feel the CAP will bring years of experience, diverse expertise, different ways to look at the problems, a valuable expanded network, and real hands-on strategy work that nets results for WA.What do you believe the biggest hurdles/opportunities for transitioning to a new circular business mindset will be, for WA, for the industry?
Engaging the manufacturers and customers in an easy way to give back the textiles and creating lines that will utilize the circular textiles 100%.Name 3 things you think businesses will be doing differently in a circular future.
Designing for circularity, finding unlikely partners in unlikely places to interconnect the loops.Q&A with CAP Member: Wayne Hubbard
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Briefly describe your background, interests & areas of expertise?
I have a background in waste and resource management, and latterly have become passionate about accelerating the development of a circular economy in London. I have worked for a variety of local government bodies including the Greater London Authority where I headed up the waste policy team, before joining the London Waste and Recycling Board in 2010– which has now become ReLondon.What does circularity in the textiles industry mean to you?
I’m primarily interested in reducing the volume of clothing in circulation, as industry statistics suggest that there are currently at least 80 billion items of clothing in circulation globally – enough to clothe us all several times over. The climate impact that clothing production and consumption has is huge, and could be tackled by more circular approaches like sharing, renting and repairing. And for those times when we actually need to buy new clothes, we need to develop a fully recyclable way of making them so we can use the fibre in today’s clothes to make tomorrow’s.What does your company/organisation do to bring about circularity (core relevant activities/commitments, highlight short and long term goals, if relevant).
ReLondon’s Business Plan highlights the circular economy as a key tool to address the climate emergency and particularly its role in reducing consumption-based emissions. Our mission is to make London a global leader in sustainable ways to live, work and prosper by revolutionising our relationship with stuff and helping London waste less and reuse, repair, share and recycle more. A city like London has a far bigger carbon impact than just its territorial emissions would suggest: we could all reduce our energy use, swap in sustainable sources, and cut back our transport-related emissions significantly, but that would still leave the emissions associated with the food, textiles, plastics, electricals and other materials such as metals and concrete that we use (and throw away) every day. So ReLondon works with businesses, citizens and local government in the capital to find achievable ways of reducing our consumption of raw materials and build circularity and resource efficiency into everything we make, buy and use. Our programmes aim to save 126,000 tonnes of CO2e a year by 2025 and contribute 15% of the additional recycling needed to be on track for London’s recycling target of 65% by 2030. Overhauling the way we think about and manage waste has the potential to reduce our greenhouse gas emissions by almost 3.5 million tonnes a year in 2050.What made your decision to join the CAP?
Fashion and textiles make a sizeable contribution to London’s total consumption and are a significant proportion of the waste that Londoners create – we can’t create a circular economy without creating a circular textiles industry. The Circular Advisory Panel is an excellent way of creating momentum through collaboration – so I wanted to be a part of it, to see where we can help mobilise change and collaborate most effectively in a city context.How important is this Circular Advisory Panel approach for preparing a company like WA for the market (i.e. a business starting out with the sole purpose of enabling circularity but entering the market in ‘linear times’)? What do you think it will bring to the company?
See answer above! I hope that I can bring some insight from a city perspective – which is where the majority of global consumption takes place. I think the panel more widely will keep everyone’s ‘eyes on the prize’ and keep circularity in our sights alongside commercial viability.What do you believe the biggest hurdles/opportunities for transitioning to a new circular business mindset will be, for WA, for the industry?
I think that there is an awful lot of goodwill in the minds of citizens – but we somehow need to convert that into action in partnership with business and government to create the conditions for system change. Awareness of the impact of fashion on the planet is at an all-time high, but so far we’ve seen many brands tinkering around the edges, experimenting with small-scale pilots or introducing schemes which pay lip service to environmental concerns; the challenge now is to make change on a scale that will genuinely reduce the industry’s contribution to the climate emergency.Name 3 things you think businesses will be doing differently in a circular future.
Recycling, sharing and repairing more.Worn Again Technologies becomes founding partner in the new Global Partner Network launched by EON – Bring your products Online.
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