Recycling can win the fight against fast fashion
Fast fashion is the epitome of throwaway culture, its predominately linear business model results in vast quantities of unwanted garments polluting the environment. Help is at hand though, as innovative solvent-based chemical recycling is allowing mixed blend textiles to be reborn as virgin-equivalent raw materials. Trendsetters in these processes, like Worn Again Technologies, are helping to build a circular economy for clothes so that fast fashion doesn’t cost the world.
Not a good look
It’s no understatement that fast fashion is a critical battleground in combating global warming and waste. Cheap garments designed to meet ever shortening trend cycles quickly end up in landfill, incinerators and the wider environment. Producing these clothes is carbon and resource intensive too; some estimate that the fashion industry is responsible for 4% of worldwide greenhouse gas emissions and 20% of wastewater,[1] not to mention the land use aspects.
Unfortunately, the problem is growing. “Microseasons”, celebrity culture and influencers are accelerating trend cycles, increasing demand for fast fashion. Combine this with an industry that is preoccupied with volume production to reduce cost per unit and the result is chronic oversupply, with around 100 billion new garments produced around the world each year.[2] The planned obsolescence of fast fashion is another issue. After a few wears and washes, many garments begin to disintegrate or discolour, encouraging owners to throw them away.
A linear model
Overproduction is debilitating to the environment. Growing cotton is resource intensive, with a single clothing item requiring either hundreds or thousands of gallons of water, grown on land that could otherwise be put to better use (such as food production) and delivering a relatively high carbon footprint. To reduce costs (and carbon), many fashion brands blend cotton with polyester. A versatile plastic, polyester is fossil fuel derived and takes a long time to degrade, adding plenty of microplastics to the planet and drinking water. Compounding the problem, recycling mixed-blend garments has historically been challenging, providing a further incentive to simply dispose of clothes.
Current market conditions and perceived recycling limitations, result in an unsurprising 85% of all textiles going to dumps or incinerators every year.[3] Dumping clothes in the ground poisons the environment (even supposedly biodegradable clothes contain non-degradable chemicals), taking up space and damaging habitats. Consequently, many countries have found loopholes to piggyback on the existing reuse trade by also exporting unwanted fast fashion products to places such as Ghana and Chile.
This is increasingly not a solution either, as photos from Jamestown Beach (Accra, Ghana) or the Atacama desert (Chile) show large volumes of material being dumped in uncontrolled landfill, blighting the local environment.[4]
It’s logical that this would occur considering the rapid increase in volume and the equally rapid reduction in average garment quality arriving on the market due to fast fashion. Legacy sorting operators, the champions of sustainable reuse, are sounding the alarm on this worrying trend. The reputation of responsible second-hand operators is being crushed by fast fashion as a broad moral brush is applied by western pundits, ultimately supporting the sales of newspapers and magazines, but doing little to improve the condition.
Fast fashion goes circular
Clearly, to build a circular economy for fast fashion, new recycling techniques are required to process mixed-blend garments. The key is to effectively separate polyester from cotton so that both materials can be reused to produce new, low emission textiles. In this area, Worn Again is leading the industry.
“Our solvent-based chemical recycling technology offers a proven solution for processing mixed-blend, fast fashion garments,” says Toby Moss, Director of Business Development at Worn Again Technologies. “Our technology separates and purifies polyester and cotton from clothes, while reliably tolerating up to 10% contamination from other materials. We don’t break the materials down into their molecular components, so after we separate out the dyes, additives and impurities, we are left with circular polyester resin pellets and cellulosic pulp ready for reuse.”
New styles with pure substance
The critical advantage of this process is that it produces pure feedstocks: virgin-equivalent materials that can be immediately utilized to make new products. For example, the polyester pellets are of spinning grade, while cellulosic pulp can be turned into fibers, so both can be used in clothes manufacturing. The technology has relevance beyond fashion too, allowing recycled materials to be incorporated into packaging, car interiors and home appliances for example.
Solvent-based chemical recycling is a proven way to lower the impact of fast fashion. By reclaiming materials, it can prevent clothes ending up in landfill, incinerators and the wider environment – superseding the current linear business model. Furthermore, resource and carbon intensive fibers like polyester and cotton can be reused in new products, reducing emissions and conserving water. The scalability of the technology ensures that a high volume of textiles can be processed, helping to combat oversupply and waste. Finally, its ability to accommodate contaminated textiles ensures excellent suitability for garments of varying qualities from different sources.
Trending towards recycling
For fashion brands and recyclers, this is a timely innovation. Governments are increasingly aware of the environmental damage caused by fast fashion and are introducing legislation to combat it. Extended Producer Responsibility schemes are forcing brands to manage the full lifecycle of their products, with legislation mandating that they process a growing proportion of their waste. To ensure cost-effective compliance, brands and recyclers will have to rely on established technologies such as Worn Again’s solvent-based chemical recycling to smoothen the transition.
Ultimately, innovative textile recycling technology is supporting a growing trend for circularity within the fast fashion industry. Instead of cheap, low-quality garments incurring ever higher volumes of carbon emissions and waste, these clothes can be used to produce new virgin-equivalent materials that have a reduced environmental impact. With the global fast fashion market projected to be worth nearly 185 billion USD by 2027[5], innovative textile recycling technology needs to be the next big trendsetter.
[1] Ultra-fast Fashion Is Eating the World – The Atlantic
[2] Fashion Waste Facts and Statistics – Businesswaste.co.uk
[3] Fast Fashion and Its Environmental Impact – Earth.Org
[4] Where does the UK’s fast fashion end up? I found out on a beach clean in Ghana – The Guardian
[5] Fast fashion market value forecast worldwide from 2021 to 2027 – Statista